Safari Chronicles: Day 10 – Penultimate Day

Patricia Awori

Today once again after a restful night (still not sleeping past 0430) we headed out on an early game drive at 0630 to see what we can see and what magnificence lay ahead!! It was a wondrous game drive that awaited us…..after watching smaller animals that we dont always see including hyaena pups playing we crossed a few rivers and found the mother cheetah and her three offspring who were in playful mood!! What a delight to watch them jumping on Mum and then running about on the plains …at one point Mum looked like she would have liked to go and look for something to eat but her cubs were not to be left behind and they were also wanting her to play with them too!! After a while we left them and went on to see what else we could see and loo and behold a leopard in a tree …this one larger than the one we saw yesterday and truly spectacular ..we could hardly believe we were so fortunate to see a leopard two days in succession!!! truly wonderful!!! Well satisfied we headed back for breakfast. Then off we went again this time to visit a Maasai Village….this was a memorable experience listening to the singing and dancing and interacting with them. In the late afternoon we head off to the river and this time to see the mighty Mara River and its Hippos and Crocodiles…and we surely were not disappointed. It was a full and lovely day out in the bush

Safari Chronicles: Day 9 -Autumunal Equinox

Patricia Awori
Today was a magnificent day from the time the sun rose until it set!!! We arose in the cool morning air and the sound of lions roaring in the distance to do an early morning game drive and after watching a spectacular sunrise on the Mara plains we drove through the long grass which has been shortened by the annual migration this year that seemed to have been dramatically curtailed with the migration heading back into the Serengeti after only being in the Mara for two months….HUGE fires are on the horizon as the old grass is burned off in anticipation of rain and new growth…praying that they keep it under control…In the distance a few hippos were making their way laboriously grazing all the while  to the river having spent the night out grazing 
As we drove along the Olare Orok River we eventually came upon a pride of lions with an older magnificent male strode along on the other side of the river He had a magnificent mane and a few battle scars …we went to visit the ladies of the pride eventually who found their heads to heavy to keep upright and so they soon flopped down in the grass and went to sleep. On and on we drove until we happened upon a mother cheetah and her 3 cubs relaxing onto of a termite castle…soon they got up and came striding accross the plains apparently in search of shade and perhaps a vantage point to secure dinner while hiding the cubs?? What an amazing morning we had and after lunch and a little R&R we headed out onto the plains and this time very fortunate while sheltering under some trees lo and behold a Leopardess!!!! We were reaaaally excited especially as no one else was there Elephants and the morning pride that had moved to the banks of the River 
The sun finally set on what had been truly a magical day.

Safari Chronicles: Day 8 …Mountain Conservation Area to Maasai Mara

Patricia Awori
What a glorious day dawned for us this morning with the sun coming up early and a truly magnificent day looked imminent.. after the chilly night it was hard to get out from amongst the warm sheets and the hot water bottle to the chilly air but it was time to pack up and say goodbye to Sweetwaters and Ol Pejeta Conservancy. Completely impressed with the great work that is being done here and how committed the various people we met from the Dog Unit to the Endangered Species compound to the Chimpanzee Sanctuary and the the Conservancy itself….it was magical and long may it be soo!! Three Rhinos came to the waterhole to drink water and to say their goodbyes….
We flew over the saddle of the Aberdare Mountain Range and through the Rift Valley in between Lake Elementaita and Lake Nakuru …over the vastly depleted Mau escarpment and into the Maasai Mara its vast open plains with the Mara River snaking its way through the plains forming oxbow Lakes…finally we arrived at our destination and home away from home for the next three nights Mara Intrepids!!!
Our expedition this afternoon was to find Big Cats….and so after spending some time with Giraffe that were in abundance this afternoon..we decided to go on and lo and behold the 5 Cheetah brothers who have this close bond and are always together!! After spending time with them and marvelling at how well they look we went onwards Raphael knew the whereabouts of some Cheetah cubs with their Mum and so we decided to see if we could find them and 15 minutes later there they were…It was a wonderful first day and looking forward to tomorrow.

Bush Chronicles: Day 7 from the Mountain Conservation Area

Patricia Awori
 
Wednesday was cold in the early hours of the morning when we arose to go out a 0600 but the colors in the sky were soo beautiful and the birds were already in full song telling us that morning is here. We had a full schedule ahead of us today and we were eager to see what we could see out in the plains and we were not disappointed….in an open field we came around a corner and almost all the species in the magnificent conservancy were before us grazing giraffe, zebra , waterbuck, eland to name but a few .. rhino mothers and their calves….greatly heartening to see this and it gives hope for this cricically endangered species!! As we returned for breakfast we caught a glimpse of  a lioness also looking for breakfast!!  Soon after breakfast the sun had chased away all the cool air and two rhino arrived at our waterhole and made themselves comfortable. We dashed off after enjoying watching them to visit the Chimpanzee Sanctuary…Patrick who takes care of a large group of the older ones took us to see them while he fed them their lunch and it is truly inspiring that these animals that have been treated so badly have built social bonds amongst themselves much like they might have in the wild where they came from with their real families!
In the afternoon we went to the critically endangered species enclosure to visit the remaining 2 Northern White Rhino and their friend a Southern White Rhino and Robert who watches over them shared with us his love for rhinos …he has been involved in the project since the inception of the rhino rescue in the conservancy with the original solitary rhino Morani !!
We finally got to see a couple of lioness who were basking in the sun but looking like they were on a mission!!!
What a glorious time we have spent in this amazing Conservancy and we are soo grateful for everything we have been able to see…now we pack and prepare to travel to the famed Maasai Mara.

Safari Chronicles Part 2 Day 6

Patricia Awori

Too many times we allow ourselves to be swept up in doom and gloom and yet there is extraordinary work being done and we dont always remember to commend those who are working so hard to ensure that the situation continues to improve particularly for rhinos who are in such a precarious state. The rest of our day was filled with images and experiences of wonderful game viewing and all the species interacting and peacefully enjoying their lives …I remember when i first came here in the 80’s and it was soo difficult to see animals because they had been used to being shot at the moment they heard the sound of a vehicle they would be off and yet now we were able enjoy seeing them at close quarters….the management and security of Ol Pejeta are doing a magnificent job and the rhino are  clearly thriving  and we were so thankful as we were able to see more than 12 rhino in one day and the spectacle of elephant buffalo and rhino in the same field peaceful enjoying their food was a lasting image from this day…it was a special day and we are thankful and must ensure that this is the case throughout their range that many generations can enjoy this wonder

Bush Chronicles: Day 5 Part 2 Ol Pejeta – The Dogs

Patricia Awori
This day dawned brightly with clear blue sky and Kirinyaga(Mt Kenya) dominating the landscape in all of her glory clear and proudly showing a jagged peaks  as the sun rose accross her shoulder….and a gentle but cool breeze invigorating us and encouraging us to keep moving to keep warm but with the promise of a warm and sunny day. Our destination after an early breakfast was to visit the tracker and attack dogs that have been specially trained for that purpose to combat illegal hunting/poaching and even stock theft. We met the lovely dogs who were boisterous and anxious to come out and play and run around but when we got out to the field where the demonstration of their skills was to take place they were all business!! We were divided into two groups …the trackers and those to be tracked….the trackers needed to be fleet of foot because once the dog picked up the scent they would take off running and so trackers need to run with them …so needless to say i was in the group to be tracked …only one of us to be tracked was to be the one the dog was after and it was completely impressive how that  was mastered and although we were deep in the bush and separated and despite the fact that we had been together the tracking dog found the correct one immeadiately…..Ahh what a wonderful demonstration . The attack dog was equally impressive…all i can say is that i hope never to be the one the attack dog is after …after the demonstration they were playful and were shown much care and affection by the handlers. What tremendous work that they do

Bush Chronicles: Part 1

Patricia Awori
Monday morning and we arose early and after an early breakfast headed to the Amboseli Airstrip …enroute encountering some yellow baboons grooming themselves and making it clear who has right of way!! We drove onwards finding the old Amboseli lodge completely overrun by wildlife….Elephants browsing in the front and impalas in the back! We had been this side of the park on our game drives and the devastation of the rising waters was certainly on display …looks like many more trees will fall and Amboseli will need a massive seed bombing excursive to replant in sections trees to avoid becoming a dustbowl ..but even in the scenes of devastation soo much beauty …the huge lakes containing flamingoes and so many waterbirds is entrancing. We didnt have to wait long after “checking in” at Amboseli Airstrip when the Dash 8 landed…very exciting to be travelling in such a huge plane!! Our Captain was a lady and in the cabin a young man from Tanzania was being trained as cabin crew in anticipation of working on similar aircraft in Tanzania for Airkenyas sister company Regional Air…and he demonstrates great promise. Plane was full of Australins who seem to be having a marvellous time
25 minutes later we landed at Wilson Airport and after 45 minutes we boarded our Twin Otter flight to Nanyuki …besides us there was an interesting assortment of passengers…from Spain & Australia again and then a couple  who were very excited and couldnt stop taking pictures of each other and an elderly lady on a walking stick and her daughter who had emigrated to Australia but had come to spend time with her Mum…as we landed in Nanyuki there was Mt Kenya in all her magnificence and George who had arrived safely and in time to collect us. Our plan this morning was to go and visit the Nanyuki Spinners and Weavers…a place that i have not visited in at least 15 years and i was truly amazed at what they have achieved in that time. It was a project of the Presbyterian Church of East Africa and Anne who founded this to help women with young children who would not otherwise have the opportunity to go to work. They started pre school for these young children and now the they build classrooms up to Standard Five.!! They have also built an entire High School….and they are working on completing the Primary School . They had just secured a bore hole and needed a pump for it …well my wonderful guests gave her the necessary funds to acquire the pump and a Roto Tank ….ohh Anne was completely overcome with joy to the extent she talked in Kikuyu trying to express her gratitude. The spinning wheels and the weaving looms are still of the ancient variety but wielded efficiently by these women who are producing lovely rugs even now…a truly inspiriting visit
We headed onward to Sweetwaters …by now the sun was really beating down on us and we finally arrived at the oasis that is Sweetwaters in time to check and have lunch!!! After a short break watching the wildlife that had gathered in turns at the waterhole including two very old Buffalo who at one point stood soo still they could be mistaken for statues. It was most interesting to see how all the different species took turns to come and drink water and the birdlife particularly the waterbirds was proliferent. After this appetiser  we went out on a game drive to see what we could see….almost at once seeing giraffe , zebra . a variety of gazelles  and then in the valley A BLACK RHINO…with a young calf…Joy!!!!! When they disappeared in the the bushes Jean thought she spotted a rhino on the  ridge…we drove up to higher ground and found indeed it was 4 rhinos and this time White Rhino’s ….a nice herd of elephants one that came all the way up to the car and tapped us as if to say welcome and be respectful of all wildlife…The sun set on this magnificent scene and we headed back to camp well satisfied with our expedition .
Dinner was a hearty affair full of good food and much laughter!! Tired and happy we headed back to our tents for our first night of “glamping”
As i am typing this in the early morning of Tuesday in the distance Lions are roaring.

Friday 6th

Patricia Awori
This day dawned brightly once again another blue sky morning and the sunrise or what i could see of it was spectacular and although there is a chill to the wind just the perfect weather for a game drive. Alexa and Henry once again leapt out of bed in the early hours of the morning to try to go hot air ballooning once again and this time they were succesful. Meanwhile we had a very filling breakfast and then set off to follow them game viewing enroute before connecting with them at the conclusion of their breakfast. It was truly extraordinary today to be soo close to the elephants who are out to impress with lots and lots of babies….after we picked up Alexa and Henry we proceeded on our game drive seeing life and death on the Mara plains …poor hippo died of natural causes we hope and the vultures fought each other for their chance to eat even though there was plenty of space!! Endless plains that is the Mara yielded many wonderful things this afternoon…2 black Rhinos…a herd of elephants that numbered over 150 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Spending so much time with the elephants was the highlight of the day …the spectacular sunset changing the colors of the grasslands that look like Rainbow coloured  Savanna 

Day 3 in the Mara Triangle

Patricia Awori
This morning was a beautiful blue sky morning and the sun rose beyond the ridge change the colors in the river until even the hippos that had recently returned to the river with mighty splashes “laughed” in a loud honking way!! Alexa and Henry set off in the early hours for a balloon ride and whilst in the basket the pilot determined the winds were not heading in the right direction and would have resulted in them headed over the escarpment toward Lake Victoria and since that was not in the plan the balloon ride was aborted to be tried again the following morning. Back they came and we all had breakfast before sallying forth to see what we could find and ohhhh what a morning it was ….a rhino cow striding briskly accross the plains heading toward shade and her rest, elephant babies playing in the lugga and struggling to get out of it and take the opportunity to eat some grass while they were at it…..4 lioness hunting in the long grass in search of food for the pride…and then a leopard enjoying breakfast of ” pork chops and sausages” …he had successfully taken down a warthog and by the time we found him was having a rest in between in his meal…he had come down off his tree and then he picked up the warthog and hauled it off into the long grass where the aroma would be obscured by the vegetation and he could enjoy at his leisure. Next we went in search of two cheetah who had been seen on the boundary of the Mara and Serengeti  it was a long way but we got there only to find the long grass of the Mara was even longer here and despite our best efforts the cheetah were no where to be seen….enjoying a nice ride along the boundary of the two countries and eco systems we headed back for some sustinance tired but happy it had been a glorious morning
This afternoon we headed out in search of the lions that we had seen earlier and lo and behold they had been succesful in taken down warthogs and the young cubs strutted past in front of our vehicle looking well fed as they went to try and nurse from their mothers who were enjoy what remained of the kill …the sunset on us enjoying the sight of these lions and it was time to return to the camp….what a glorious day…cant wait to see what we can find tomorrow.
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